Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Raisins and other foods that can be toxic to your dog

Originally written in June 2008 but worth repeating: yes, raisins can be toxic to your dog. Learn more about other human foods that can harm your dog here.

Written by:
Laurinda Morris, DVM
Danville Veterinary Clinic
Danville , OH

This week I had the first case in history of raisin toxicity ever seen at MedVet. My patient was a 56-pound, 5 yr old male neutered lab mix that ate half a canister of raisins sometime between 7:30 AM and 4:30 PM on Tuesday. He started with vomiting, diarrhea and shaking about 1AM on Wednesday but the owner didn't call my emergency service until 7AM.

I had heard somewhere about raisins AND grapes causing acute Renal failure but hadn't seen any formal paper on the subject. We had her bring the dog in immediately. In the meantime, I called the ER service at MedVet, and the doctor there was like me - had heard something about it, but ...

Anyway, we contacted the ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center and they said to give IV fluids at 1 & 1/2 times maintenance and watch the kidney values for the next 48-72 hours. The dog's BUN (blood urea nitrogen level) was already at 32 (normal less than 27) and creatinine over 5 (1.9 is the high end of normal). Both are monitors of kidney function in the bloodstream. We placed an IV catheter and started the fluids. Rechecked the renal values at 5 PM and the BUN was over 40 and creatinine over 7 with no urine production after a liter of fluids.

At that point I felt the dog was in acute renal failure and sent him on to MedVet for a urinary catheter to monitor urine output overnight as well as overnight care. He started vomiting again overnight at MedVet and his renal values have continued to increase daily. He produced urine when given lasix as a diuretic. He was on 3 different anti-vomiting medications and they still couldn't control his vomiting. Today his urine output decreased again, his BUN was over 120, his creatinine was at 10, his phosphorus was very elevated and his blood pressure, which had been staying around 150, sky rocketed to 220 ...

He continued to vomit and the owners elected to euthanize.This is a very sad case - great dog, great owners who had no idea raisins could be a toxin. Please alert everyone you know who has a dog of this very serious risk. Poison control said as few as 7 raisins or grapes could be toxic. Many people I know give their dogs grapes or raisins as treats including our ex-handler's. Any exposure should give rise to immediate concern. Onions, chocolate, cocoa and macadamia nuts can be fatal, too.

Even if you don't have a dog, you might have friends who do. This is worth passing on to them. Confirmation from Snopes about the above. http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/raisins.asp

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Does your dog feel guilty?

A friend recently told me about her dog getting into the trashcan while she was at work. "He got in the trash again. When I walked in the door he looked guilty, turned around and left the room." This is a fairly common complaint, especially when dogs are left alone, unsupervised, for long periods of time. I suggested to my friend that it might help to understand her dog’s perspective – which might well be something like this: 
  • 7:03 a.m. Henry, a 3-year-old retriever, had breakfast, a drink of water, a poop and a pee. His Mom left the house, already focused on the workday ahead. Henry settled in for his morning nap. 
  • 8:45 a.m. Trash trucks coming. Henry wakes up, checks out the noise, woofs, gets a sip of water, goes back to sleep. 
  • 9:17 a.m. Henry wakes up, stretches, cruises the house. Finds his tennis ball. What good is a ball without someone to throw it? Something moved in the corner of the bedroom. Spider? Investigate. Where'd it go? Cruises the bathroom. Nothing interesting here. Moves on to the kitchen. The squirrels are in the backyard. Can't get to them. Woof. Back and forth in front of the sliding glass door. SQUIRRELS! Woof woof woof. Ugh and oh well. Henry lies down, watching the backyard, and falls asleep. 
  • 10:12 a.m. Phone rings. Henry wakes up, stretches, and gets a drink of water. What is that tantalizing smell? His people sometimes put yummy stuff in that container in the kitchen. Fish from last night? Did they leave some in there for the dog? They are SO good to Henry. Henry knocks the trashcan over and starts the most fun game of the day: a treasure hunt. He finds the fishy smelling paper towel, eats it; finds the potato peelings, eats them; finds the mostly empty chocolate pudding container, licks it clean. Not much else of interest. Another sip of water and a nap on the couch. 
  • Fast forward to 5:48 p.m. Mom gets home from work to find the contents of the trashcan all over the kitchen floor. Henry greets her as always, tail wagging, excited to see her. But wait. He takes one look at her body language and knows she is not happy. Why? She's yelling at him. Why? Her hands are all fisted and she's wearing her mad face. Why? Henry tries to figure out what's going on when she yells "bad dog" in her really mean voice. Henry lowers his head submissively and gets out of the kitchen as fast as he can. 
Dogs live in the moment, so there was no connection for Henry between his trashcan diving (something that happened hours before) and his Mom’s anger when she got home from work. What she saw was not a dog feeling guilty but dog feeling pretty darned confused. 

My friend thought she needed a solution to Henry’s trashcan diving. That one’s easy: put the trashcan somewhere he can't get to it. But what she really needs is a dog with a richer daily life. Here are some possibilities for Henry and maybe for your dog, too, if he spends too much time home alone: 
  • A dog walker. If you have a full-time job, you are probably gone 10+ hours a day. Consider hiring a dog walker (sometimes pet sitters offer this service, too). She can come in mid-day to spend an hour of quality time with your dog. Not only can she take your dog for a walk in the neighborhood but she can also play fetch with him in the backyard and provide lots of hugs and belly rubs. 
  • Doggy day care. Put variety into your dog’s life by dropping him off at a doggy day care once or twice a week. This is the place your dog can play with other dogs in a safe, supervised setting. Many doggy day cares offer both half and full-day programs. Before choosing one, visit. Observe and ask questions. If it feels right, schedule your dog’s first visit. When you pick your dog up after that first day, expect him to be tired but happy. Ask how he did. Did he make new friends? Did he have any problems? The staff of a well-run doggy day care will be happy to answer your questions.
  • Interactive toys. The best toys for an unsupervised dog are those that he is unlikely to shred and possibly ingest. Hard rubber treat dispensing toys like the Kong classic are among the best. Premier also makes a great line of toys, including the Twist ’n Treat
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Give your dog a big, full, happy life and you will get nothing but tail-wagging love in return.

Thursday, March 7, 2013

Brown Dog Tales, the e-Newsletter

Brown Dog Tales, the e-Newsletter, is free. Subscribe by text or follow the link.
Read the first issue here.


Thursday, February 21, 2013

Internet puppy scammers are outnumbering puppy mills

If you love dogs and do not understand why there is so much fuss about shutting down puppy mills, read about Tootles. She was rescued from a puppy mill in Missouri. She is only 9 months old. And she is very sick.

If Tootles had remained at that puppy mill, she would have been bred or killed. Why? Because in a puppy mill, dogs are not loved. Nor do they live in a home, have toys, or proper veterinarian care. They exist for one reason: to make more money for the greedy bastards who hide out, often in rural areas, practicing the kind of cruelty to animals that should result in felony arrests followed by very long prison sentences.

Remember Tootles the next time you look at a puppy in a pet store. Remember her when you're Googling "puppies".


Read more on the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals' website. They have a LOT to say about puppy mills, as does the Humane Society of the United States. And this from the San Francisco SPCA information about buying puppies online:
  • Many people are fooled by the sophisticated advertising techniques of online purebred “breeders” who are in fact puppy mill owners.
  • Most people know that puppy mill puppies are sold in pet stores but don’t know they are also sold online.
  • As TARGETED ONLINE ADVERTISING from these sellers becomes more sophisticated and pet stores continue to go out of business, online puppy sales will continue to increase.
A note from me: This means you are a mark. You are being lured in by advertising campaigns that are nothing but lies: money-making schemes using your emotions ("Isn't that puppy adorable!") to sell you a potentially sick and/or psychologically damaged dog.
  • It is estimated that up to 45% of all puppies are acquired online – and virtually all of these dogs are from puppy mills.
  • About 1 million breeding female dogs are confined in puppy mills throughout the country.
  • About 4 million dogs are bred each year, and about 4 million cats and dogs are euthanized. So for each dog bought from a puppy mill, that’s one less dog is saved from euthanasia.
  • Approximately 25% of dogs in shelters are purebreds, so purchasing a dog is not the only way to get a purebred dog.
Before you scream at your monitor or your phone that no one should ever buy a puppy, get a grip. The reality is that people will always buy puppies. They can adopt them from shelters and they can buy them from reputable breeders. There should not be a third option.

Follow the Best Friends Animal Society's Puppy Mill Initiatives and learn about the psychological damage done to puppy mill dogs on the Animal Law Coalition's website.

Friday, February 8, 2013

Flying with your dog

A client asked how to prepare for flying home with her puppy from the breeder's - several states away. The trip includes four driving hours to her local airport, a three-hour nonstop flight, and a 90-minute drive from airport to breeder. The following tips can apply to anyone flying with a small dog as carry-on luggage (yes, that is what the airlines consider them).

Before you fly
Call the airlines to make your reservation. Tell them that you will be traveling with your puppy on the return flight and that he will be in a small, soft carrier that will fit under the seat in front of you (this makes him carry-on luggage). You may be asked how much he weighs. Ask the breeder this question prior to calling the airlines: "at the age I will be picking up my puppy, about how much will he weigh?".

You will be charged a fee by the airlines. Ask how much it is and when/where you pay it (usually when you check in at the airport with your puppy). Here is an example of the way it works: Delta's policy for pet travel. When planning your trip, check the current rules and regulations from the Transportation Security Administration. The TSA is in charge of security at airports in the U.S.

If possible, never fly United. Their customer service is horrible, delays happen all the time, and they apparently don't like dogs, including service dogs (and their handlers).

Things you will need for your puppy on the return flight
  • An approved carrier that will fit under the seat of an airplane 
  • A four-foot leash
  • A collar 
  • Clean-up materials: poop bags, wet wipes, and a few paper towels or a pee pad (absorbent like a disposable diaper)
  • A small amount of dry dog food from the breeder. You will only need this if there is a flight delay. I was once stuck at Dulles with a 10-week-old puppy for nine hours because of a cancellation.
  • A small cup for the puppy to drink water out of. Same as above. You won't want to water the puppy until you get off the plane at the end of your journey. Only offer water if there is a lengthy flight delay. 
  • If you DO get delayed and have to give your puppy water, make it bottled water. Tap water in the airport can cause tummy upset.
What you should do on your drive to the airport with your puppy
  • Safety first: when driving with your puppy, keep him in his carrier, belted in with a seat belt in case you have to stop quickly. You don't want him frightened and/or injured during his very first drive with you. Always remove leash and collar before putting a puppy or dog into any kind of enclosure to avoid choking hazards.
  • If puppy vocalizes, ignore him. Responding in any way will encourage more of the same. Even if puppy vocalizes in the car it is unlikely he will do so on the plane.
  • Stop about half an hour before you get to the airport to give your puppy a potty break. Pick a place dogs do not go. *Never take a very young puppy to an interstate's rest area for a potty break or anywhere near a pet store. Look for an office building, a church or other public building with grass near it - a place that dogs do not frequent. Why? Puppies, prior to their final vaccinations around 16 weeks, are susceptible to contagious diseases like parvovirus, spread through the feces of infected dogs. It's deadly, so keep puppy safe and stay away from places dogs frequent!*
  • If your puppy is not in his carrier, he should be on leash.
  • Assuming you have rented a car, getting from the rental car turn-in to the airport terminal can be a challenge. Depending on the airport, you may have to take a shuttle to get to the terminal. Even if you have packed light, you may have a roller bag, a backpack, and a puppy in a carrier. Give yourself plenty of time. Use elevators not escalators.
At the airport
  • Have your reservation information and identification easily accessible.
  • If you are traveling alone and have a roller bag, check it through to your final destination. Making your way through an airport with a dog carrier and a puppy is a balancing act. The less you have with you, the better. Consider a small backpack for essentials, leaving your hands free for puppy. Next best thing is an across-the-body bag of some sort, again leaving your hands free. If you are traveling with another adult, you can ask that person to handle the bags.
  • Know ahead of time (ask your airline) where to check in when you get to the airport. It will probably not be the standard check-in line, which means it should be shorter and less time consuming.
  • Next stop: security. Since you looked at the TSA website prior to your trip, you know the basics. 3-1-1 (maximum 3.4 oz. bottles; 1 quart, clear plastic, zip-top bag; 1 zip-top bag per passenger). This bag of liquids, as well as laptop computers have to come out of your bag and be placed in their own bins to go through the X-ray machine. Make sure you pack them in a way that they are easy to access. You will be balancing a puppy in a carrier, taking off your shoes (wear slip-ons to make this easier), coat, sweater, hat, clunky jewelry, etc. and putting them in bins to be X-rayed. Your pockets have to be empty of everything. When you are ready to walk through the metal detector, remove your puppy from his carrying case and send the case through the X-ray machine. Hold puppy in your arms and proceed through the metal detector. And smile. A happy person with a puppy can make a TSA agent's day. After you and your belongings have been scanned successfully, gather your things, put your puppy back in his carrier, and proceed to your gate. 
Below is a Lab puppy snoozing happily in the gate area, awaiting departure.

  • Boarding the plane is the easiest part. When the gate agent announces that people traveling with small children or anyone needing a little extra time can board first - proceed with ticket in hand, get your ticket scanned, and get on the plane. This will give you the opportunity to put your bag in the overhead bin and to tuck your puppy, in his carrier, under the seat in front of you, where he will remain for the duration of the flight. A flight attendant may ask if you need water for your puppy. Politely decline, since drinking water is directly connected to him urinating - which you want to avoid while in the air.
Arriving at your destination
  • Keep your puppy in his carrier or in your arms as you get off the plane and move through the terminal. Odds are that when those puppy paws hit the floor, sidewalk or grass, your puppy will squat to pee. Better that happen outside than inside. Know your airport. Where can you get puppy to - that is NOT a pet relief area if your puppy has not had all his vaccinations - where he can relieve himself. Try to make this a low-traffic area so your puppy isn't surrounded by strangers wanting to pet him. Get to this potty place as quickly as possible, put on puppy's leash and collar and set him on the ground. He will probably sniff, maybe bounce a little, and most likely pee and maybe even poop within a very few minutes. Clean up solid waste and dispose of it properly.
  • When puppy is finished, carry him either to the luggage carousel if you checked a bag or directly to your car if you have all of your belongings. You can put him back in his airline carrier or in a crate you have waiting for him for the ride home. Whichever you use, make certain it is solidly anchored to your car so the carrier or crate doesn't bounce around. 
  • Drive away from the airport and find a place where you can stop to give your puppy water and a little food, so he will be comfortable for the ride home. If you want to give him some exercise, you can find an appropriate place to take him out of the car on leash and play with him a bit. See *--* above for specifics about where NOT to take him.
Next stop, home.

Puppies tend to fly very well. They usually fall asleep before take-off and stay asleep until you land. Relax and enjoy your flight!

Sunday, February 3, 2013

Brown Dog Revisited

I have four blogs about dogs. Yikes. My goal this year was to consolidate them. But you know, I'm thinking that's not going to happen. Maybe someday when I have an assistant ...

Welcome to my original blog, Brown Dog Tales, started in 2008. I've neglected it for a couple of years. But I have a soft spot in my heart for it. Within it are reminders of dogs and their people that I've known and loved and never want to forget.

So that means Brown Dog will live on. I'll be posting here because there is a lot to write about that is not appropriate for my other blogs, which have very specific themes: diabetic alert dogs, puppies, and old dogs. This is my catch-all blog with a big broad theme: dogs!

Here is an example. I'm working with my first hearing dog client. That's Becca and Winston, below, during a public access training session at the art museum. This a seriously cool story because, among other things, Winston is a rescue from Richmond Animal League, one of my favorite rescue groups ever. Winston was about 11 months old when wonder woman, Sarah Clinton - who works at RAL - identified him as a potential candidate for a service dog job. She was right on the money. Winston has been with Becca for about seven months and the two of them are amazing together. And I want to tell the ongoing story of this college student, living independently for the first time, with her service dog.


I can't wait to share more of my big beautiful doggy world with you. Won't you join me and Murphy, the Brown Dog?

 
In this picture, Murphy was assisting with the final edits on my puppy book. Good job, dude!

Saturday, November 3, 2012

I was recently asked by a client if his dog had to walk at heel slightly behind him.
This is my dog, Murphy, and my response.